Ribbed Boatneck Dress with Shell/Picot Edging

I had some yarn leftover from my Great Cheap Sport-Weight Yarn Competition that just HAD to be put to use, and my daughter was BEGGING me to make something for her instead of for myself, so I created this:

(Sorry, to say, I still haven't replaced camera broken by said child, so terrible (stupid)phone  photo will have to suffice.)

This garment is suitable for beginners, so enjoy!

MATERIALS:

Color A: Bernat Softee Baby Soft Fern (1 skein)

Color B: Caron Simply Soft Light Real Red (Just a little)

Color C: Bernat Softee Baby Antique White (1 skein)

Hook sizes G6 and H8

Yarn needle.

GAUGE: 10 rows and 16 st = 4” in BLO dc.

This dress does have 2 seams, but it is NOT hard to piece them. Directions are for a 4T dress; it is easy to customize and adjust for a larger size.

FRONT AND BACK: Using G6 hook, work two identical pieces using the following.

Work in Color A. Ch 80.

ROW 1: Working in back ridge of starting chain, dc in 4^th chain from hook, dc in each ch across. (78 dc) Turn.

ROW 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk 1^st dc, dc in BACK LOOP ONLY of each dc across (78 dc) Turn.

Now is a good time to test for length. If measuring on a person, hold the swatch slightly above armpit height. Keep in mind that the bottom edging will add around 2" and that its weight will pull the dress down. If you need to add length, frog and increase the number of stitches in the starting chain.

ROWS 3-28: Repeat row 2.

[For larger sizes, add length by increasing starting chain. Any number of stitches is acceptible. Do remember that the eventual weight of the edging on the bottom will cause the dress to hang a little longer than it appearsat this stage. For adding width, add an even number of rows. Easy peasy.]

When your rectangle is the desired length and width to fit comfortably around the belly, it's time to cinch the top. To do this:

Turn the work so that the ribs run vertically. Ch 1. Work 1 sc around the post of the top dc in each of the 28 rows (28 sc)

Before cinching. (FYI: This is just a swatch.)

After cinching. (Still just a swatch.)

JOIN COLOR B (red)

ROWS 29-30 (or whatever): ch 1, sc in each sc across (28sc). Finish off.

With right sides together, sew front to back in color A. Leave 8 stitches unsewn for arm holes!

COLLAR:

NOTE: Even though this is now a round pattern, you will turn at the end of each row. This will help hide the seam in the middle of the back.

Attach color C with sl st in middle of back panel.

ROW 1: sc in each sc to edge of panel (14 sc), ch 25, sc in ea sc across front panel (28 sc), ch 25, sc in ea sc to start of round, join with sl st. Turn. [For a larger size, don't forget to increase the number of chains in the arm holes.]

ROW 2: ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in sc BEHIND your chain, creating a crossed stitch effect. (Sk next unworked st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st.) around.

ROWS 3-6 will follow this same basic pattern, but you will work a DECREASE stitch at the beginning and end of each arm hole. To DECREASE your row, do this:

As you approach the arm hole, (sk 2 st, hdc in next st, hdc in first skipped stitch) twice, then continue in pattern. As you reach the other side of the arm hole, repeat. [This is flexible. Depending on your yarn and desired fit, you may wish to decrease only once. For a boatneck fit, decrease once per joint (4 decreases total); for a fit that resembles straps, decrease twice per joint (8 decreases total).

ROW 7: Join color B. sc in each st across.

BOTTOM EDGING:

Switch to H8 hook.

ROW 1: Using COLOR A: 3sc per row around base of dress, spaced evenly.

ROW 2: JOIN COLOR B: sc in each sc around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 3: ch 1, sc in each sc around. TURN.

JOIN COLOR C.

ROW 4: ch 2, hdc in same st as join, (2 hdc in each sc) around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 5: ch 2, hdc in st BEHIND your chain, creating crossed stitch effect. (sk next unworked st, hdc in next st., hdc in skipped stitch) around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 6: ch 3, dc in st BEHIND your chain, creating crossed stitch effect. (sk next unworked st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 7: Repeat row 6. Finish off.

EDGING ALONG ARMS.

ROW 1: Join COLOR C at back. Sc in ea st across (25 sc)

ROW 2: ch 3, sk 3 st, 4dc in next st, (sk 3 st, 5dc in next st –shell made) 6 times.

ROW 3: (ch 3, picot, ch 2, sl st in center st of next shell) 5 times. Finish off. Repeat for other arm.

Picot= ch 3, sl in 1^st ch of picot. Practically, this means you will ch 6, sl st in 4^th ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in center of next shell, repeat.

IF YOU WANT, you can use the tail of the edging to cinch the arms to the body of the dress. This can help create a boatneck look.

Weave in ends. Yay, dress!

Easy Loopy Chain Scarf

After working an intricate pattern in tiny thread, there's nothing I like better than a quick project in big yarn.  I threw this together in an afternoon and felt very, very accomplished.

One of my favorite things about this is that it falls nicely within my goal of creating a sassy, non-boxy project that beginners can complete with ease.  You don't even need a crochet stitch!

I originally worked this scarf in Plymouth's Firenze Boucle, which is a relatively even blend of wool, acrylic, and nylon. The packaging doesn't list a recommended hook size for crochet, but it is likely a bulky weight yarn that takes an I-K hook.  For this project, I used a J.  Later, I made it in a worsted weight cotton yarn with a size H hook.  It's a little shorter, which is fine with me.

RED SCARF:
Yarn: bulky boucle, approx. 60 yards.
Hook: J

GREEN SCARF:
Yarn: worsted cotton, similar yardage
Hook: H

 To begin: ch 160, join with sl st. to first stitch to form a large loop. Guage on the green scarf, 15 st per 4 inches.









RED SCARF: Rows 2-12
GREEN SCARF: Rows 2-14

ch 160, join with sl st to first stitch in the current chain.  Do not join to prior row.  Repeat for desired number of loops.

As you progress, it's a good idea to separate one side of your complete loops from the other. Not being a fan of complicated fixes myself, I opted to tie the strands together loosely to avoid tangles.  This will save time when you get to the wrapping stage.

You'll know you have the loops arranged correctly if you can put the scarf over your head like a necklace.

When you have constructed your desired number of loops, finish off, but DON'T CUT YOUR YARN!!! You'll have a seam that looks something like this.  It's ugly, though yours might not be as bad as mine.  Good news: we'll wrap up this problem in no time!

I left my yarn connected to the skein, but you may want to leave a 2-3 foot tail.  You will use this tail to wrap a small section of the scarf.  These pictures show how to get started.  You'll cinch it tight and continue wrapping until your wrapped section is the desired width.

My wrapped section is about 4 1/2 inches.  I wouldn't make it any bigger than that.

 Once you've wrapped as much of the scarf as you want, you can snip your yarn, leaving a normal tail for weaving in.  The pictures below will show you how I finished mine, though this certainly isn't the only option.

This scarf is very quick and easy, and it can be worn either long or doubled over, as shown below:

Beginners Scarf

 I have just started giving crochet lessons to a friend, and I find that I am largely underwhelmed by the kinds of projects found in beginner pattern books.  They're boxy and clunky, and I don't think beginners should be stuck with square animals, ill-fitting garments, or useless decor just because they're still learning.

I aspire to write several beginner's patterns for my friend.  They will be designed to take shape easily, to teach how to see the parts of stitches, to progress quickly, to make mistakes easy to see, to build skill, and to help people new to the craft understand how the same 5 stitches can work together to create so many different kinds of structures.  They'll also be cute and useful. (See my previous post for tips for beginners.)

This is the first pattern.  After working an admittedly useless swatch of sc and dc in boring straight rows, she will move on to this--a scarf for her first grade daughter.

A small swatch from this pattern.  Obviously, a scarf would be longer. 

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic
Hook: H or I (check the yarn)
Gauge: not important for this project

Abbreviations:
ch   chain                                
sc   single crochet
dc   double crochet

Ch 18.
Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook. sc in each ch across. (17 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across (17 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across (17 sc)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. (counts as first dc, so don't work into the first stitch!) dc in each of the next 2 sc. *ch 1,    skip next sc, dc in next sc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 sc.
Row 5: ch 3, turn. (counts as first dc, so don't work into the first stitch!) dc in each of the next 2 dc. *ch 1,                   dc in the next dc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 dc.

Repeat Row 5 until scarf is desired length.  After you've reached the length that is appropriate for your person:

Row ?: ch 1, turn.  sc in first dc and in each of the next 2 dc.  *sc into ch 1 space, sc into next dc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 dc.
Row ?2: ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across.  (17sc)
Row ?3: ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across. (17 sc)
Finish off.

On Reading the Pattern

• When you see *...* in a pattern, it means you will be doing the same thing over and over a few times. In this pattern, you repeat what is between the *...* 6 times.
• When you are working in dc, your turning chain counts as your first dc.  In order to keep the right number if stitches in the row, you need to skip the first stitch in the row below.
• When you are working in sc, the turning chain is there just to give you leverage.  You WILL work into the first stitch of the row below when you are working in sc.

Cascading Keyhole Scarf

With a nod to Rebecca's Cascade Scarf , I created this pattern after making my daughter's keyhole scarf.  I wanted a full-sized scarf for myself and have been interested in working a cascading scarf for a while.  This pattern uses similar construction techniques to the one cited above, but the pattern has enough modifications that I thought it warranted its own post.

Worked in a neutral textured yarn, this is a nice compliment to a fall wardrobe.  The keyhole design uses less yarn than a conventional scarf because the scarf is shorter.  Because it hangs in the center, it wears well with a jacket or blazer.

This yarn came from my grandmother's stash and was unlabeled.  I am not sure what its official weight or fiber content is, but it is slightly stretchy and seems to be a heavy worsted-weight yarn.  It is comprised of synthetic strands of ecru and brown and an elastic strand of black.  It has a texture similar to readily-available boucle yarns.

Cascading Keyhole Scarf

Guage: 11 st = 4 in

Yarn: just over 2 50g balls of worsted weight yarn

Hook: Size J

A NOTE ON GAUGE: Several people who have made this scarf have found that their scarf ends up shorter than mine. It is a simple matter to increase the number of stitches in your starting chain, though this may alter the placement of the keyhole.  Again, the yarn I used was unlabeled, so it is entirely possible it was aran weight rather than worsted. It's probably a good idea to check the length after the first or second row just to make sure it's what you want.

Ch 97.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. (96 sc)

Row 2: ch 2, turn. hdc in same st, hdc in next st, (2 hdc in next st, hdc in next st) across. (144 hdc)

Row 3: ch 3, turn. dc in same st, dc in next 2 st, (2 dc in next st, dc in next st, dc in next st) across.

(192 dc)

Row 4: ch 4, turn. tr in same st, tr in each of the next 3 st, (2 tr in next st, tr in each of the next 3 st)

until 56 st away from end, ch 6, sk next 6 st, resume pattern (keyhole made). (240 tr)

Row 5: 2 sc in each st across. (480 sc) Finish off. No edging.

Ribbed Picot Keyhole Scarf for Toddler

This is the first pattern I've posted online.  Please let me know if you find errors, and feel free to post any modifications you make in the comments section.

This pattern is my sole property.  You may print it for purposes of making the project, but you may not sell or repost this pattern.  Items made from this pattern are for personal use or may be used as gifts or sold for charity.



YARN: Bernat Cottontots, Green
HOOK: I, 5.5 mm
Pattern uses US terminology.

Note: All hdc worked into back loops only.

Ch 91.
Row 1: hdc into back ridge of 3rd ch (counts as first hdc),  hdc into back ridge of each ch.
Row 2: ch 2, turn (counts as first hdc here and throughout pattern).  Working in back loops only, hdc in each  
            hdc.
Row 3: Ch 2, turn.  hdc in next 20 st, ch 5, sk next 5 st, hdc in remainder of row.
Row 4: Ch 2, turn.  hdc in each st.
Row 5: Ch 2, turn, hdc in each st.

EDGING: ch 3, join with sl st at base of ch (picot made).  3 sl st along edge, picot, 3 sl st around scarf.  Finish off.

NOTE: The pink version pictured here is modified for better staying power.  I found that a single keyhole isn't necessarily enough to keep the scarf on an active child, so I worked the scarf with 2 keyholes.  It is widened to 8 rows, with keyholes placed in the 3rd and 6th rows.  The keyholes are still 5ch wide.  The woven look is attractive, and the scarf stays in place much better.

This pattern is easily modified for length and width.  For one keyhole, ensure that you work an odd number of rows, and place the keyhole in the center row. For two keyholes, simply ensure that the two holes are evenly spaced. The width and placement of the keyhole may be need to be modified as the size of the scarf is changed.