Ribbed Boatneck Dress with Shell/Picot Edging

I had some yarn leftover from my Great Cheap Sport-Weight Yarn Competition that just HAD to be put to use, and my daughter was BEGGING me to make something for her instead of for myself, so I created this:

(Sorry, to say, I still haven't replaced camera broken by said child, so terrible (stupid)phone  photo will have to suffice.)

This garment is suitable for beginners, so enjoy!

MATERIALS:

Color A: Bernat Softee Baby Soft Fern (1 skein)

Color B: Caron Simply Soft Light Real Red (Just a little)

Color C: Bernat Softee Baby Antique White (1 skein)

Hook sizes G6 and H8

Yarn needle.

GAUGE: 10 rows and 16 st = 4” in BLO dc.

This dress does have 2 seams, but it is NOT hard to piece them. Directions are for a 4T dress; it is easy to customize and adjust for a larger size.

FRONT AND BACK: Using G6 hook, work two identical pieces using the following.

Work in Color A. Ch 80.

ROW 1: Working in back ridge of starting chain, dc in 4^th chain from hook, dc in each ch across. (78 dc) Turn.

ROW 2: ch 3 (counts as first dc), sk 1^st dc, dc in BACK LOOP ONLY of each dc across (78 dc) Turn.

Now is a good time to test for length. If measuring on a person, hold the swatch slightly above armpit height. Keep in mind that the bottom edging will add around 2" and that its weight will pull the dress down. If you need to add length, frog and increase the number of stitches in the starting chain.

ROWS 3-28: Repeat row 2.

[For larger sizes, add length by increasing starting chain. Any number of stitches is acceptible. Do remember that the eventual weight of the edging on the bottom will cause the dress to hang a little longer than it appearsat this stage. For adding width, add an even number of rows. Easy peasy.]

When your rectangle is the desired length and width to fit comfortably around the belly, it's time to cinch the top. To do this:

Turn the work so that the ribs run vertically. Ch 1. Work 1 sc around the post of the top dc in each of the 28 rows (28 sc)

Before cinching. (FYI: This is just a swatch.)

After cinching. (Still just a swatch.)

JOIN COLOR B (red)

ROWS 29-30 (or whatever): ch 1, sc in each sc across (28sc). Finish off.

With right sides together, sew front to back in color A. Leave 8 stitches unsewn for arm holes!

COLLAR:

NOTE: Even though this is now a round pattern, you will turn at the end of each row. This will help hide the seam in the middle of the back.

Attach color C with sl st in middle of back panel.

ROW 1: sc in each sc to edge of panel (14 sc), ch 25, sc in ea sc across front panel (28 sc), ch 25, sc in ea sc to start of round, join with sl st. Turn. [For a larger size, don't forget to increase the number of chains in the arm holes.]

ROW 2: ch 2 (counts as hdc), hdc in sc BEHIND your chain, creating a crossed stitch effect. (Sk next unworked st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st.) around.

ROWS 3-6 will follow this same basic pattern, but you will work a DECREASE stitch at the beginning and end of each arm hole. To DECREASE your row, do this:

As you approach the arm hole, (sk 2 st, hdc in next st, hdc in first skipped stitch) twice, then continue in pattern. As you reach the other side of the arm hole, repeat. [This is flexible. Depending on your yarn and desired fit, you may wish to decrease only once. For a boatneck fit, decrease once per joint (4 decreases total); for a fit that resembles straps, decrease twice per joint (8 decreases total).

ROW 7: Join color B. sc in each st across.

BOTTOM EDGING:

Switch to H8 hook.

ROW 1: Using COLOR A: 3sc per row around base of dress, spaced evenly.

ROW 2: JOIN COLOR B: sc in each sc around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 3: ch 1, sc in each sc around. TURN.

JOIN COLOR C.

ROW 4: ch 2, hdc in same st as join, (2 hdc in each sc) around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 5: ch 2, hdc in st BEHIND your chain, creating crossed stitch effect. (sk next unworked st, hdc in next st., hdc in skipped stitch) around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 6: ch 3, dc in st BEHIND your chain, creating crossed stitch effect. (sk next unworked st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) around. Join with sl st. Turn.

ROW 7: Repeat row 6. Finish off.

EDGING ALONG ARMS.

ROW 1: Join COLOR C at back. Sc in ea st across (25 sc)

ROW 2: ch 3, sk 3 st, 4dc in next st, (sk 3 st, 5dc in next st –shell made) 6 times.

ROW 3: (ch 3, picot, ch 2, sl st in center st of next shell) 5 times. Finish off. Repeat for other arm.

Picot= ch 3, sl in 1^st ch of picot. Practically, this means you will ch 6, sl st in 4^th ch from hook, ch 2, sl st in center of next shell, repeat.

IF YOU WANT, you can use the tail of the edging to cinch the arms to the body of the dress. This can help create a boatneck look.

Weave in ends. Yay, dress!

Easy Loopy Chain Scarf

After working an intricate pattern in tiny thread, there's nothing I like better than a quick project in big yarn.  I threw this together in an afternoon and felt very, very accomplished.

One of my favorite things about this is that it falls nicely within my goal of creating a sassy, non-boxy project that beginners can complete with ease.  You don't even need a crochet stitch!

I originally worked this scarf in Plymouth's Firenze Boucle, which is a relatively even blend of wool, acrylic, and nylon. The packaging doesn't list a recommended hook size for crochet, but it is likely a bulky weight yarn that takes an I-K hook.  For this project, I used a J.  Later, I made it in a worsted weight cotton yarn with a size H hook.  It's a little shorter, which is fine with me.

RED SCARF:
Yarn: bulky boucle, approx. 60 yards.
Hook: J

GREEN SCARF:
Yarn: worsted cotton, similar yardage
Hook: H

 To begin: ch 160, join with sl st. to first stitch to form a large loop. Guage on the green scarf, 15 st per 4 inches.









RED SCARF: Rows 2-12
GREEN SCARF: Rows 2-14

ch 160, join with sl st to first stitch in the current chain.  Do not join to prior row.  Repeat for desired number of loops.

As you progress, it's a good idea to separate one side of your complete loops from the other. Not being a fan of complicated fixes myself, I opted to tie the strands together loosely to avoid tangles.  This will save time when you get to the wrapping stage.

You'll know you have the loops arranged correctly if you can put the scarf over your head like a necklace.

When you have constructed your desired number of loops, finish off, but DON'T CUT YOUR YARN!!! You'll have a seam that looks something like this.  It's ugly, though yours might not be as bad as mine.  Good news: we'll wrap up this problem in no time!

I left my yarn connected to the skein, but you may want to leave a 2-3 foot tail.  You will use this tail to wrap a small section of the scarf.  These pictures show how to get started.  You'll cinch it tight and continue wrapping until your wrapped section is the desired width.

My wrapped section is about 4 1/2 inches.  I wouldn't make it any bigger than that.

 Once you've wrapped as much of the scarf as you want, you can snip your yarn, leaving a normal tail for weaving in.  The pictures below will show you how I finished mine, though this certainly isn't the only option.

This scarf is very quick and easy, and it can be worn either long or doubled over, as shown below:

Tam or Beret, Depending on How You Define Them

I made this very quickly from yarn leftover from my chevron sweater. It is easy, quick and cute.  Pattern is free, from lion brands.  Requires login to view.

Off a head, it looks like a pretty traditional beanie, but really it

 wears more like a beret.

Makes a bad hair day cute!

Beginners Scarf

 I have just started giving crochet lessons to a friend, and I find that I am largely underwhelmed by the kinds of projects found in beginner pattern books.  They're boxy and clunky, and I don't think beginners should be stuck with square animals, ill-fitting garments, or useless decor just because they're still learning.

I aspire to write several beginner's patterns for my friend.  They will be designed to take shape easily, to teach how to see the parts of stitches, to progress quickly, to make mistakes easy to see, to build skill, and to help people new to the craft understand how the same 5 stitches can work together to create so many different kinds of structures.  They'll also be cute and useful. (See my previous post for tips for beginners.)

This is the first pattern.  After working an admittedly useless swatch of sc and dc in boring straight rows, she will move on to this--a scarf for her first grade daughter.

A small swatch from this pattern.  Obviously, a scarf would be longer. 

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic
Hook: H or I (check the yarn)
Gauge: not important for this project

Abbreviations:
ch   chain                                
sc   single crochet
dc   double crochet

Ch 18.
Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook. sc in each ch across. (17 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across (17 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across (17 sc)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. (counts as first dc, so don't work into the first stitch!) dc in each of the next 2 sc. *ch 1,    skip next sc, dc in next sc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 sc.
Row 5: ch 3, turn. (counts as first dc, so don't work into the first stitch!) dc in each of the next 2 dc. *ch 1,                   dc in the next dc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 dc.

Repeat Row 5 until scarf is desired length.  After you've reached the length that is appropriate for your person:

Row ?: ch 1, turn.  sc in first dc and in each of the next 2 dc.  *sc into ch 1 space, sc into next dc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 dc.
Row ?2: ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across.  (17sc)
Row ?3: ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across. (17 sc)
Finish off.

On Reading the Pattern

• When you see *...* in a pattern, it means you will be doing the same thing over and over a few times. In this pattern, you repeat what is between the *...* 6 times.
• When you are working in dc, your turning chain counts as your first dc.  In order to keep the right number if stitches in the row, you need to skip the first stitch in the row below.
• When you are working in sc, the turning chain is there just to give you leverage.  You WILL work into the first stitch of the row below when you are working in sc.

Tips for Beginners

I have just started teaching my friend how to crochet.  As a result of 2 lessons, I present to you, Interwebs, the following tips:


My Tips for Beginners


Tips on Yarn

• Use worsted weight or larger yarn for beginning projects; it is easier to see the stitches.
• If appropriate, use a larger hook than the yarn calls for; it's easier to see the stitches.
• Use a light-colored yarn; it is easier to see the stitches.
• If you want multi-colored yarn, go with a style that gradually transitions from one color to the next rather than one that mixes colors in twists.  It's easier to see the stitches.
• Avoid those fun textured yarns like Homespun, Boucle, or Eyelash.  You'll NEVER find your stitches in all that yarn

[Have you worked out the running theme yet?  When you're beginning, you need to be able to see your stitches!]

• Cotton is hard to work with.  Find a simple acrylic that feels nice. Begin with cheap yarn, but not one that makes your skin feel like it belongs on an alien.
• As your patterns progress in difficulty, keep a skein of v. v. cheap crappy yarn on hand.  Work the pattern until you understand it, and then begin working in your real yarn.  That way you don't learn on your real yarn. (see the first point below)

Tips on Learning

• Know you are going to mess up.  This does not mean you can't learn, and it doesn't mean you're a bad person.
• Look at messing up as an opportunity to learn.  I taught myself to crochet, and I have wasted more yarn than I've used well.  Mistakes help you learn. (see points 6-7 above)
• Practice your chain stitch until it's even and tidy.  It's not all that interesting, but that stitch is the basis for all crochet. Once you figure out how to hold the yarn to make that stitch even, the rest is gravy.
• Working Row 1 into your foundation chain is the worst part of any project.  It's plain not fun.  It takes too long.  But work Row 1 into your foundation chain.  Because the rest of the project is awesome.
• For some, learning to read patterns is more difficult than learning stitches.  Be patient and be willing to start over a few times. (see the first point in this section)

Tips on Equipment

You don't need special gadgets.  You need a few mid-sized hooks (G-J).  You need some yarn.  You need a yarn needle.  Be ready to improvise the rest.  Use your kid's math ruler to check gauge.  Use paper clips or small pieces of yarn as stitch markers.  Use free patterns online.  Watch youtube for video tutorials.

DO have a pair of scissors dedicated to crochet (and sewing, if you sew) and don't let your kids or significant other touch them.  They are not for going to clip herbs; they are not for cutting out paper snowflakes; they are not for opening the packaging to micro SD cards--they are only for crochet (and sewing, if you sew).

My next post is a pattern for beginners who have learned (in an admittedly useless, boring swatch) ch, sc, and dc.  Let's have fun!