Easy Loopy Chain Scarf

After working an intricate pattern in tiny thread, there's nothing I like better than a quick project in big yarn.  I threw this together in an afternoon and felt very, very accomplished.

One of my favorite things about this is that it falls nicely within my goal of creating a sassy, non-boxy project that beginners can complete with ease.  You don't even need a crochet stitch!

I originally worked this scarf in Plymouth's Firenze Boucle, which is a relatively even blend of wool, acrylic, and nylon. The packaging doesn't list a recommended hook size for crochet, but it is likely a bulky weight yarn that takes an I-K hook.  For this project, I used a J.  Later, I made it in a worsted weight cotton yarn with a size H hook.  It's a little shorter, which is fine with me.

RED SCARF:
Yarn: bulky boucle, approx. 60 yards.
Hook: J

GREEN SCARF:
Yarn: worsted cotton, similar yardage
Hook: H

 To begin: ch 160, join with sl st. to first stitch to form a large loop. Guage on the green scarf, 15 st per 4 inches.









RED SCARF: Rows 2-12
GREEN SCARF: Rows 2-14

ch 160, join with sl st to first stitch in the current chain.  Do not join to prior row.  Repeat for desired number of loops.

As you progress, it's a good idea to separate one side of your complete loops from the other. Not being a fan of complicated fixes myself, I opted to tie the strands together loosely to avoid tangles.  This will save time when you get to the wrapping stage.

You'll know you have the loops arranged correctly if you can put the scarf over your head like a necklace.

When you have constructed your desired number of loops, finish off, but DON'T CUT YOUR YARN!!! You'll have a seam that looks something like this.  It's ugly, though yours might not be as bad as mine.  Good news: we'll wrap up this problem in no time!

I left my yarn connected to the skein, but you may want to leave a 2-3 foot tail.  You will use this tail to wrap a small section of the scarf.  These pictures show how to get started.  You'll cinch it tight and continue wrapping until your wrapped section is the desired width.

My wrapped section is about 4 1/2 inches.  I wouldn't make it any bigger than that.

 Once you've wrapped as much of the scarf as you want, you can snip your yarn, leaving a normal tail for weaving in.  The pictures below will show you how I finished mine, though this certainly isn't the only option.

This scarf is very quick and easy, and it can be worn either long or doubled over, as shown below:

Table Topper in Thread

This year's item for a school auction is a round pineapple table topper.  This one is worked in size 10 thread, so it is significantly larger than the one in the pattern.  There's not much to say, except that it's a logical pattern that I enjoyed working, particularly after the center section. (For some reason, I like to work pineapples; I'm not sure why.) It took me about a month to finish it.

Here are some photos of it while it's blocking.

And here is the final product.  I am very pleased with this piece. I think it's elegant, and I hope it fetches a good price at auction.

Scarves for Grandmothers

These two scarves were made as gifts for the grandmothers this Christmas.  Both were relatively easy to make, and I just used yarn I had on hand, as it wasn't doing anything except waiting for the right project to show up.

 This one came from Mrs. Micawber's Recipe for Happiness.   The pattern has a fantastic tutorial and comes with both charted and written instructions.

It's a narrow scarf that can tie in a variety of ways. It is a fast pattern and isn't picky about yarn size. I would say, though, that you should stay away from highly textured yarns for this pattern because the "lace" part of Queen Anne's Lace would be totally lost.

This scarf pattern can be found only as a ravelry download. It is called the Leafy Lacey Scarf, and it is written by Anette Bak.  It also comes with a really good tutorial.

As with the first scarf, a textured yarn would be a poor choice.  I worked this in a sport weight yarn, and I am really happy with the size.  It is easy to adjust the length on this pattern, though I just stuck with the recommended number of "leaves," and that worked for me.

Largish Doily

I'm working on a thread doily for my cousin to use in her upcoming June wedding. She has opted to use several doilies for her reception tables, and I LOVE the idea.

She selected this pattern. The site is a little obnoxious to me and requires registration, but I haven't received emails from them since I first signed up.

I initially used size 10 thread with a size 5 steel hook, but it was a little too loose, as seen in this photo. I started over with a size 7 hook and got much better results.








I took a pretty good break over the Christmas season, at which point I was gifted a few Jo-Anne gift cards, and I treated myself to a very nice set of steel hooks. The good news is that the hooks are comfy and high-quality; the bad news is that they don't include size 5 or 7. I went with a 6 and had no trouble.

 Here are a few photos of progress. I'll make a few more notes about construction when it's finished.

A Different Kind of Sweater

This sweater is from the author of a book called Crochet that Fits.  I got the pattern from Knit and Crochet Now (Season 3; requires login), so I haven't read the book, but if the other patterns in it are like this one, I will probably try to find a copy.

Here's why: this sweater involves unconventional construction, and from what I can tell, it appears it will offer a better fit and drape than a traditionally designed crochet sweater.  It is worked in vertical rows rather than horizontal ones, and shaping is created by changing stitches rather than by using increases or decreases.  I won't know until it is finished, but this style of construction is promising, and I hope to incorporate basic concepts from it into my own future designs.  I'm intrigued.

It has taken me about 2 weeks to finish the front piece and about half of the back.  I've had more time to crochet than usual, so it may not be accurate, but that makes it pretty quick for a sweater. 

I was unsure about including the skirt, but I think I will glad I did.  I'm using old yarn I've had forever.  If I really like how it turns out, I may make another one in a nicer yarn.

My gauge is significantly different from that of the pattern, so I added 10 rows to match the necessary width, and with a starting chain of 86, my sweater is a little bit longer than the one in the pattern.

Here is a detail of the band on the front.  It is simply 8 sc and 1 hdc.  It appears to be an effective means of creating a fitted empire waist, but I will have to piece it before I know for sure.





More to follow as I progress...

Tam or Beret, Depending on How You Define Them

I made this very quickly from yarn leftover from my chevron sweater. It is easy, quick and cute.  Pattern is free, from lion brands.  Requires login to view.

Off a head, it looks like a pretty traditional beanie, but really it

 wears more like a beret.

Makes a bad hair day cute!

Beginners Scarf

 I have just started giving crochet lessons to a friend, and I find that I am largely underwhelmed by the kinds of projects found in beginner pattern books.  They're boxy and clunky, and I don't think beginners should be stuck with square animals, ill-fitting garments, or useless decor just because they're still learning.

I aspire to write several beginner's patterns for my friend.  They will be designed to take shape easily, to teach how to see the parts of stitches, to progress quickly, to make mistakes easy to see, to build skill, and to help people new to the craft understand how the same 5 stitches can work together to create so many different kinds of structures.  They'll also be cute and useful. (See my previous post for tips for beginners.)

This is the first pattern.  After working an admittedly useless swatch of sc and dc in boring straight rows, she will move on to this--a scarf for her first grade daughter.

A small swatch from this pattern.  Obviously, a scarf would be longer. 

Yarn: worsted weight acrylic
Hook: H or I (check the yarn)
Gauge: not important for this project

Abbreviations:
ch   chain                                
sc   single crochet
dc   double crochet

Ch 18.
Row 1: Insert hook in 2nd ch from hook. sc in each ch across. (17 sc)
Row 2: Ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across (17 sc)
Row 3: Ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across (17 sc)
Row 4: Ch 3, turn. (counts as first dc, so don't work into the first stitch!) dc in each of the next 2 sc. *ch 1,    skip next sc, dc in next sc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 sc.
Row 5: ch 3, turn. (counts as first dc, so don't work into the first stitch!) dc in each of the next 2 dc. *ch 1,                   dc in the next dc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 dc.

Repeat Row 5 until scarf is desired length.  After you've reached the length that is appropriate for your person:

Row ?: ch 1, turn.  sc in first dc and in each of the next 2 dc.  *sc into ch 1 space, sc into next dc* 6 times, dc in each of the next 2 dc.
Row ?2: ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across.  (17sc)
Row ?3: ch 1, turn.  sc in each sc across. (17 sc)
Finish off.

On Reading the Pattern

• When you see *...* in a pattern, it means you will be doing the same thing over and over a few times. In this pattern, you repeat what is between the *...* 6 times.
• When you are working in dc, your turning chain counts as your first dc.  In order to keep the right number if stitches in the row, you need to skip the first stitch in the row below.
• When you are working in sc, the turning chain is there just to give you leverage.  You WILL work into the first stitch of the row below when you are working in sc.